The Big Picture | Chasing Paris-Roubaix
With the 2024 edition of Paris-Roubaix looming, I have been reminiscing a bit about prior editions. In 2023 I had a particularly memorable day having had the good fortune to chase the race around Northern France with my CX travel companion Geoffrey Tercelin (Yefri photos) and true expert driver, Simon Duquesnoy, who has been featured in national media for his sector-hopping skills. In a typical year I consider a successful day out to be two or three spots photographed. Last year, however we made it to six(!)* Granted, it was a bit more stressful. A lot more stressful really, but it was well worth it to see so much of the race.
We started the day in the départ town of Compiègne, about a 90-minute drive north of Paris. While necessary in order to pick up Geoffrey’s credentials, going to the start of big road races is becoming less and less compelling. Particularly since COVID, riders tend to leave their team bus only to ride to sign-on and back. Unfortunately for the fans the days of riders hanging out in camping chairs, chatting, signing autographs, etc are well and truly over.
Before the riders rolled out we got in the car and headed for our first stop: The town of Noyon.
*Six spots total, five on pavé. I also shot at the start and around the velodrome after the finish. So, maybe 8 total? Not sure how to count them.
Noyon is situated well before the first pavé sector. It can feel a bit pointless at a race like Roubaix to photograph on a normal tarmac road. But the stop was also an opportunity to grab some supplies. I had forgotten until we reached Noyon that it was Easter Sunday. Luckily a boulangerie and a charcuterie were open so we were able to stock up on baguettes, ham and water before the riders arrived.
Our next planned stop was Saint-Quentin, a city on a large hill but also without pavé.
The Gèants du Nord deserve their own post. For now I’ll just say they are out in force for Paris-Roubaix. Many of the towns the race passes through have them. If you come out and only watch on a pavé sector you may not see them at all. On TV you’ll spot them if you are looking for them. But if you drive the route ahead of the race you will get the full experience.
Thanks to some unexpected traffic our Saint-Quentin stop was scrapped and so our next spot was the Troisville à Inchy pavé sector. Troisville is the first sector the riders tackle. This is a popular spot both with media and fans who are trying to follow the race. For photographers it is an opportunity to get the first images of riders on pavè out into the world. For fans it is early enough in the race to get to other sectors without needing the ability to drive on the course itself. Even with that ability we had to sprint to the car in order to make spot number three in time.
Spot number three was a new one for me, and for everybody else, as it was making its Paris-Roubaix debut. The Haspres à Thiant sector runs along the top of a small ridge, providing the opprtunity to get a variety of shots including the one below where the riders are on a road running parallel to the sector before turning on to it. There was also by now an established break, which is always good for increased photo opportunities.
Rolling out of this sector we had what I can only describe as a Sergio Leone-esque showdown with a Jumbo team car on a very narrow road. Can’t remember who blinked first but we got where we needed to be next before the riders so I will take that as a win.
Next up was the Hornaing à Wandignies sector. This is the one where you can see the nuclear power plant. It is a sector that I have shot on in previous years as it is the first sector tackled by the women’s race. I have also come here on recon days. Unfortunately, the logistics of the day meant we had to skip two iconic sectors: Trouée d’Arenberg and Pont Gibus (Wallers à Hélesmes). I have visited both of these sectors in previous years, so I did not feel too bad about missing them.
There was a good crowd here as usual without being so large that I was unable to get the photos I wanted. This is one of the places that is popular with the RV crowd. I have seen RVs parked here as early as the Wednesday before the race. So, if you were wondering how early you need to get here to ensure the best parking, now you know.
We arrived at our next stop, number 5, just seconds ahead of the race. We had to park 100 or so meters from the pavé and, as you can see in the shot below, I didn’t quite make it there for the leaders, so I missed shots of Wout and MVDP. This was the only pavé stop that I would consider a bust photographically. Not a complete bust, maybe a semi-bust. This put a bit of pressure on me to get some good ones at Carrefour de l’Arbre, our final stop of the day.
Carrefour de l’Arbre is maybe my favorite spot to photograph despite some immense challenges. All of the credentialed photographers shoot inside the final bend (not the turn off the pavé; the left turn before it), which is a great spot and it’s possible to get clear shots there. If you are anywhere else, you need to just pray that the hundreds of people blocking your shot will move out of the way at the last second. And to be fair, they almost always do. If they didn’t, the riders would hit them. It is pure chaos. Pure, beautiful chaos.
There are only two real sectors after the Carrefour, so by this point the race is truly blown apart. Riders will be coming through for the next 30 mins or so, similar to a high mountain stage of Le Tour. And riders outside the time cut will be coming through well after that. It’s the only the race of the year that riders care about finishing whether in or out of the time cut.
Unfortunately, we needed to go to the velodrome to return Geoffrey’s photo vest. By the time we got there the race was over and it was an absolute zoo. Many team vehicles were trying to exit while we were trying to enter. We were the one salmon swimming downstream.
It’s amazing how calm and empty the place was a mere 30 minutes later though. Just a few team cars and staff from Jumbo and Alpecin along with a few dozen superfans waiting for Wout, Mathieu and Jasper. It always shocks me how fast the circus folds up tents and a sense of normal life returns.
This coming weekend I am planning a bit of a different experience. Hoping to see some of each of the categories racing. I hate to possibly jinx it but I have a good feeling about the Americans competing on Saturday and Sunday. The juniors race is especially compelling. If you’re in North America and an insomniac I believe there will be live streams on YouTube for both the Juniors and U23s on Sunday.
Follow me on Instagram for semi-irregular updates at: @thepenultimatestage